The rise and fall in excitement about Australian wines is clearly shown by their rankings in the Top 100 survey by Wine Spectator. Since 2010 there has been a steady decline in what the leading wine publication calls the best wines based on quality, value, availability and excitement.
On the eve of publishing its list of the top 100 wines for 2024 the Wine Spectator has provided details of its editor’s choices going back to 1988.
In that inaugural year Penfolds Grange Hermitage made the list at number 26 with Château Lynch Bages Pauillac the top choice.
1989 – Grange up to 10th and was joined by Seppelt‘s Tawny Port Australia Old Trafford at 15th, Rosemount Shiraz Hunter Valley 28th, Rosemount Cabernet Sauvignon Hunter Valley no. 48.
1990 – Rosemount Shiraz Hunter Valley no.29, Brown Brothers Chardonnay King Valley Reserve no.70.
1991 – Rosemount Shiraz Hunter Valley no.83, Rosemount Chardonnay Hunter Valley Show Reserve no.87
1992 –Rosemount Shiraz South Eastern Australia No.7, Hardys Chardonnay South Australia Eileen Hardy No.77, Cape Mentelle Chardonnay Margaret River no.8, Henschke Shiraz Keyneton Hill of Grace no.87
1993 – Rosemount Syrah McLaren Vale Show Reserve no.55
1994 – Yalumba Muscat Rutherglen Museum Show Reserve No.31, Chateau Reynella Tawny Port Australia Old Cave Fine Old No.32, Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra John Riddoch Limited Release No.37, Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay Coonawarra No.44, McWilliam’s Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Mount Pleasant No. 64
1995 – And the 1990 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange was not only back on the 100 list but on top as No.1 The Spectator note read: “Amazingly ripe, rich and opulent, with layers of earthy currant, black cherry and anise flavors that are smooth and supple. The silky texture leads into a long, lingering aftertaste that offers echoes of fruit. The tannins are fine but substantial enough to age. Try from 1997 to 2005. 8,000 cases made.” At position 29 came another Penfolds – the Penfolds Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389. And at No.45 – Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Bin 707, No.58 Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon Keyneton Cyril Henschke, Marienberg Shiraz McLaren Vale No.63, Rosemount Chardonnay Hunter Valley Roxburgh No. 71 with Rosemount Shiraz South Australia at No.74. A 1992 Henschke Shiraz Keyneton Mount Edelstone gave that Australian a double.
1996 – Henschke Keyneton Estate Eden-Barossa Valleys (a Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec Blend) ranked as No.4. Lindemans Chardonnay Padthaway joined in for the first time as No.7 with Chateau Reynella Shiraz McLaren Vale Basket Pressed No.18. Hardys Shiraz Padthaway-McLaren Vale-Clare Valley Eileen Hardy No.20 and De Bortoli Sémillon Australia Noble One No.28. Another Henschke – the Henschke Shiraz Keyneton Mount Edelstone at No.31. Lindemans Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra St. George Vineyard No.35. Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Kalimna Bin 28 again. This time at No.38 followed by Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange at No.42. Another couple of Astralian newcomers with Tyrrell’s Pinot Chardonnay Hunter Valley Vat 47 as No.46 and St. Hallett Shiraz Barossa Old Block No.49. And another pair of first-timers – McGuigan Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Australia Personal Reserve No.61 and Mitchelton Chardonnay Victoria Reserve No.62. Taltarni Sauvignon Blanc Victoria No.71, Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay Coonawarra No.77 and a Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley brought the down-under tally for the year to 15.
1997 – And an old favourite in the Rosemount Shiraz South Eastern Australia listed again as No.45 with Rosemount Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral No.47. Penfolds scored No. 63 with the Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Bin 707 with Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Gold Preference Barossa Valley No.68. Another first-timer with Leasingham Shiraz Clare Valley Domaine No.77.
1998 – An interest in Australian fortifieds returned with Yalumba Muscat Victoria Museum Release ranked No.7. Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange No.18. Enter Western Australia – Plantagenet Chardonnay Western Australia Omrah Unoaked No.26 with its “jazzy mouthful of citrus, pear and mineral flavors remain{ing} juicy and vivid through the delicate finish.” Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc South Australia No.28. The American experts were not neglecting warm climate with Orlando Chardonnay Padthaway St. Hilary at No.39.
1999 – A “profound wine” where the “Shiraz burrows deep into its plush texture to reveal gorgeous flavors of ripe plum, berry and exotic spice, all balanced impressively on an elegant frame” was how the Barossa Valley Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper was introduced as No.7. No.16 – Chain of Ponds Chardonnay Adelaide Hills – was tasted as “glorious white wine, graceful and harmonious.” Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Barossa featured again at No.24 as back home in Australia the cool climate protagonists were growing more strigent on their campaign against the Barossa. Strange how Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange (No.25 this year) is a wine that does not fit in with their arguments about single vineyard terroirs being the necessary source of great wine. Leasingham Shiraz Clare Valley Classic Clare No.31. Redbank Chardonnay Victoria Long Paddock No.53. Rosemount Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Show Reserve No.54. A golfer got a guernsey with his Greg Norman Estates Cabernet-Merlot Coonawarra No.58.
2000 – And Rosemount Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre McLaren Vale GSM carried the flag at No.20. What a great job that now departed company did in promoting Australian wine. The ever reliable Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange at No.26. Warm climate again with Elderton Shiraz Barossa Command No.42. And another – Peter Lehmann Shiraz Barossa No.52. Rosemount Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Petit Verdot McLaren Vale Traditional No.74. Penfolds Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389 No.77 with Tatachilla Shiraz McLaren Vale No.80 and Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Barossa No.84. Remember the fine wines that Lindemans made before falling victim to corporate madness? Lindemans Chardonnay Padthaway, No.87, was wonderful and economic drinking. Barossa Valley Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley Ebenezer rounded out the Australians in the top 100 as No.98.
2001 – That regular Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange No.18. Chateau Reynella Syrah McLaren Vale Basket Pressed No.22. Wolf Blass Riesling South Australia Gold Label No.42. Leasingham Shiraz Clare Valley Bin 61 No.63. Penfolds Shiraz Coonawarra Bin 128 No.76.
2002 – Enter Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series at No.33. And still they came – Rosemount Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral No.37. Paringa Shiraz South Australia Individual Vineyard No.40. Penfolds Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Thomas Hyland No.55 with Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Kalimna Bin 28 No.87. What – another warm climate red? Brothers In Arms Shiraz Langhorne Creek No.89.
2003 – Yet more warmth! Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT No.6 and Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.11. Rosemount Shiraz Mudgee Hill of Gold No.57. When will these Americans learn not to defy Brian Croser and James Halliday? Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Barossa No.62. Still more of the same heat. d’Arenberg Shiraz McLaren Vale The Footbolt Old Vine No.66 and Penfolds Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389 as No.82.
2004 – Golf again – Greg Norman Estates Shiraz South Eastern Australia Reserve No.8. Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.24. Elderton Shiraz Barossa Command No.27. Green Point Shiraz Victoria (nowknown as Chandon I think) is No.28. Torbreck The Struie Barossa Valley No.38. Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT No.45. Two Hands Shiraz McLaren Vale Angel’s Share No.51. Wolf Blass Shiraz Barossa Gold Label No.73. Rosemount Chardonnay Hunter Valley Show Reserve No.93. Peter Lehmann Shiraz Barossa No. 95.
2005 – Another first-timer –Thorn-Clarke Shiraz Barossa Shotfire Ridge at No.18. Barossa Valley Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper No.21. Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No. 28. Rosemount GSM South Australia No.32. Wilson Riesling Clare Valley Polish Hill River No.45. Greg’s still going – Greg Norman Estates Shiraz Limestone Coast No.58. Forefathers Shiraz McLaren Vale No.63. Evans & Tate Chardonnay Margaret River No.79. Marquis Philips Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia No.87. A cool climate one at last – Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Victoria Billi Billi No.91.
2006 – Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.10. Langmeil Shiraz Barossa Valley Valley Floor No.16. Torbreck The Struie Barossa Valley No.38. Yangarra Estate Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre McLaren Vale Cadenzia No.43. Pirramimma Shiraz McLaren Vale No.48. Jacob’s Creek Shiraz South Australia Reserve No.64. Greg Norman Estates Cabernet-Merlot Limestone Coast No.65. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale-Langhorne Creek-Padthaway The Boxer No.68. Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT No.70. Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier Victoria No.85. Shaw & Smith Chardonnay Adelaide Hills M3 Vineyard No.95.
2007 – Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.5. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.8. Schild Shiraz Barossa No.16. John Duval Entity Barossa Valley No.24. Heath Wines Riesling Clare Valley Southern Sisters Reserve No.48. Thorn-Clarke Shiraz Barossa Shotfire No.57. Rosemount GSM McLaren Vale No.60. Yellow Tail Shiraz South Eastern Australia The Reserve No.72 described as “Bright, lively, harmonious and generous.” d’Arenberg Viognier-Marsanne McLaren Vale The Hermit Crab No.84.
2008 – Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.9. Elderton Ode to Lorraine No.16. Leasingham Riesling Clare Valley Magnus No.44. Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley No.55. Two Hands Shiraz McLaren Vale Angels Share No.83.
2009 – The Barossa keeps on featuring. This time with Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden leading the way at No.14. At last Penfolds Shiraz South Australia St. Henri makes the list at No.24. A second appearance for Yalumba Viognier Eden Valley. No.39. Schild Shiraz Barossa No.43. Shoofly Shiraz Adelaide No.51. Peter Lehmann Shiraz Barossa No.54. Thorn-Clarke Shiraz Barossa James Goddard No.59. Heartland Viognier-Pinot Gris South Australia No.68. Jacob’s Creek Riesling South Australia Reserve No.73. d’Arenberg Shiraz McLaren Vale The Stump Jump No.82.
2010 – Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.2. Schild Shiraz Barossa No.7. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.55. Fetish Shiraz Barossa Valley The Watcher No. 61. d’Arenberg The Stump Jump Red South Australia No.63. Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Barossa No.77.
2011 – Chateau Tanunda Shiraz Barossa Grand Barossa No.33. Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.35.
2012 – A “big wine with depth and harmony” put an Australian in the top ten again – Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden No.3. Schild Shiraz Barossa No.30. Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley Dry No.56. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.98
2013 – Mollydooker Two Left Feet McLaren Vale No.38. Red Heads Studio Shiraz McLaren Vale Barrel Monkeys No.41. Paringa Shiraz South Australia No.52. Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Black Label No.85.
2014 – Moving up the list. Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.2. And why? “Sinewy, lithe and expressive, packing red berry, black cherry and cardamom aromas and flavors into a tightly focused package. The finish expands and powers up, driving a long and meaty finish. Displays muscle and poise.” Becoming a regular – Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.5. Another regular – Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.59. Fowles Shiraz Victoria Are You Game? No.66. Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier Victoria No.98.
2015 – Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley Dry No.33. Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier Victoria No.66. Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.76. Grosset Riesling Clare Valley Springvale No.95.
2016 – Mollydooker Shiraz McLaren Vale Carnival of Love No.30. John Duval Plexus Red Barossa Valley No.34. Two Hands Shiraz McLaren Vale Lily’s Garden No.71.
2017 – Jim Barry Riesling Clare Valley The Lodge Hill Dry No.33. Tait The Ball Buster Barossa Valley No.36. Penley Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Phoenix No.48. Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir Yarra Valley No.54. Powell & Son Riverside Barossa No.73.
2018 – Jasper Hill Shiraz Heathcote Georgia’s Paddock No.20. Penley Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Phoenix No.28. Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.38. Yalumba Viognier South Australia The Y Series No.56. Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Filius No.58.
2019 – A comeback for Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT Bin 798 in at No.9. John Duval Plexus Red Barossa Valley No.25. Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series No.28. Giant Steps Pinot Noir Yarra Valley No.42.
2020 – A regular returns in the form of Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Bin 28 Kalimna No.41. Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Filius No.46. Fowles Shiraz Victoria Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment No.97.
2021 – John Duval Shiraz Barossa Entity No.23. Warm climate again –Hickinbotham Shiraz McLaren Vale Brooks Road No.49. Ben Haines Syrah Grampians No.61.Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Four Chambers No.74.
2022 – One for the cooler guys – Giant Steps Pinot Noir Yarra Valley No.18. First Drop Shiraz Barossa Mother’s Milk No.26. Hickinbotham Shiraz McLaren Vale Brooks Road No.36. Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Sexy Beast No.39. Yalumba Shiraz Barossa Samuel’s Collection No.62.
2023 – First Drop Shiraz Barossa Mother’s Milk No.38.
2024 –
