Robert Parker was the man who 25 years ago gave Australian fine wine the biggest boost it had ever had. His discovery of the likeable warm climate wines of the Barossa elevated their standing on the world market. It was the biggest mistake in our industry’s history that our Anglo-centric wine hierarchy, instead of extolling Parker, denigrated him. Rolf Binder, one of the early beneficiaries of Parker’s influence, tells below of meeting the man
It was late in the afternoon one day in June 2002, work had finished work for the day at the winery on Seppeltsfield Road and I was waiting for a special visitor. This visitor had up until now been in the Barossa for the day hosted by my previous USA importer at that time. This Importer was the person who in 1998 had introduced a range of uniquely interesting, well made, balanced wines to Robert Parker and, as some would say, caused the whole boom from Australia. He was very protective of his guest.
Earlier in the day, Robert Parker, had stopped off at my good friend’s Rick Burge’s winery who then owned Burge family winemakers for a quick tasting and an introduction to the Barossa. As he was leaving, Rick kindly asked him if he would like to viit me later in the day. Parker replied of course and Rick gave the driver instructions of how to get to the winery.
The lunch was being held at what was once a superb and totally unique restaurant called the Landhaus in Bethany. The restaurant was housed in an old original settlers cottage dating from maybe the 1880’s and was filled with small rooms. It was originally opened by a Dutch chef who created exquisite meals with absolute finesse. This restaurant, sat probably 14 people in three rooms so it was very cozy which helped create its ambience.
Finally about 5 PM car with a driver pulls up and out steps a largish gentleman with the red jacket and a beaming smile. I greeted him at the door he smiled and said you must be Rolf! Then there was almost an awkward moment, where we started shaking hands but then embraced like old friends in his deep voice he said it’s lovely to be here.
He came inside and we talked about all sorts of general things nothing in particular. Although I had a few wines sitting there on the tasting bench to try I got the feeling he wasn’t that interested in tasting him or just wanted to come and see what we’re all about. In the fading light I quickly jumped in the ute with him and we raced up to track where I showed him the old Vine Mataro which at that stage were probably hundred and 25 years old. Then we moved on driving past the Heysen and Hanisch vineyards as he had mentioned previously that these were two of his favourite single vineyard wines in Australia.
He was a very inquisitive person who asked a lot of questions and showed genuine interest in what I was doing. When we came back to the winery I explained how we managed our fermentations and why were able to make the wines we did.
Almost as quickly as he had arrived he bade farewell and obviously moved on to the next visit he wanted to undertake. It would be a few more years before I would see him again where I did a tasting with him in America which I’ll elaborate another time.
Read HERE how Warm climate multi-regional blends are Australia’s unique contribution to the great wines of the world.
