The myth that cool climate wines are superior is all pervasive among the know-it-all-experts and wine judges. Thus it was a pleasant change to read James Halliday dismissing “the idea that the Hunter is too hot for high quality pinot noir.” He awarded the 2021 Mount Pleasant Single Vineyard Old Hill Hunter Valley Pinot Noir 95 points on his 100 point scale.
The full note:
Hand-picked and destemmed, 10% retained as whole bunches; 3-day cold soak, open fermented; 8 days on skins, then matured in French puncheons for 8 months. Excellent colour; the elegant red fruits and superfine tannins dismiss the idea that the Hunter is too hot for high quality pinot noir. 13.5% alc, screwcap 95 points, drink to 2041, $55
Not that it should have taken this Mount Pleasant to make a point about “the cool climate Hunter”. I recall a Time magazine cover 43 years ago that had a Tyrells Pinot Noir as one of the world’s 12 best wines. The Tyrells website recalls the circumstances:
“1979 – Tyrrell’s wins the first Olympics of Wine in Paris, organised by the French food and wine magazine Gault-Millau. The 1976 Vat 6 Pinot Noir is acclaimed the best wine in the world, edging out some 330 wines from 33 countries. The award is a particular vindication as Tyrrell’s had pioneered the variety in Australia, planting two acres of Pinot Noir in 1972 – among the first commercial plantings of the variety in the Hunter region.”
Addendum 19 February 2023 – There are some relevant items in the Glug Wine Diary for 19 February 2023